Our famous Bolt-On Pinto Mustang II Crossmember kit for 1935-1940 Ford Car and Pickup Truck.
This custom-made fully bolt-on crossmember kit is based on the Pinto-Mustang II independent front suspension system. Adding this kit to your ride eliminates bump steer and other unpleasant surprises resulting in a safe and enjoyable ride.
The crossmember itself lowers your car about 2-4 inches when compared to stock, and with the adjustable upper coil spring pods there is about 2 1/2" of additional adjustment possible to further fine tune your setup, providing the best method available to get the correct height geometry.
Center support rods provide additional strength to the lower strut rod mount, and the interlocking tabs between upper pods and lower crossmember prevent movement.
Safety thru Engineering: This fully bolt-on crossmember uses Pinto-Mustang II based suspension components. Using our 50+ years of expertise and experience, we have engineered this system to provide your classic ride with a suspension that is far superior to that of the original Mustang II in safety, strength, handling and performance.
Interlocking design: The main bolt-on crossmember cradles the frame for superior strength.
Adjustment System: Our exclusive ride height adjustment system enables about 2 1/2" of adjustable height at the coil spring pods, providing the best method for correct ride height geometry or to fine-tune your ride.
Note: The adjustment system provides a quick and easy way to correct the driving geometry of your ride. The crossmember itself will lower your ride 2-4 inches from stock. It is important to keep the lower A-arms level. Our adjustment system allows you to set up the suspension correctly and then adjust as needed as the car settles.
Easy and accurate installation: Build using the highest quality standards, our independent front suspension is easy to install. The unique bolt-on system can be mounted safely and securely, and with the included instructions, installation of the crossmember is just a matter of following a couple of steps. The super-accurate fixtures we use when building your crossmember ensure a perfect fit.
Complete hub-to-hub component package, IF-7480TW, link, when combined with this crossmember builds a complete front end.
Kit includes new custom made upper and full lower control arms, spindles with nuts, caliper bracket kit, 11" rotors, calipers with pads and pins, coil springs, manual rack and pinion, rack bushings, tie rod ends and shocks. The full lower control arms eliminate the need for support rods.
Complete hub-to-hub component package, IF-7480HH, link, when combined with this crossmember builds a complete front end.
Kit includes new custom made upper and lower control arms, strut rods with bushings, spindles with nuts, caliper bracket kit, 11" rotors, calipers with pads and pins, coil springs, manual rack and pinion, rack bushings, tie rod ends and shocks.
To fine-tune our ride height adjustment system easily, consider our custom IFS wrench, link.
Set-up rods that temporarily replace the shocks and springs for an easy way to set the correct ride height during the build, link.
Instructions for Chassis Engineering Bolt-on 1974-1980 Pinto & 1974-78 Mustang IFS for 1935-1940 Ford.
(not all Mustang parts will work, see point 7)
1. Remove the stock front crossmember. Straighten frame edges and lips where new crossmember and strut rod suppoers will sit. Be sure frame edges are 90 degrees to side of frame. Remove any rivet heads that interfere with fit. Grind rivet heads even with frame.
2. Bolt new lower crossmember to bottom of frame using the original axle rebound rubber hole as line-up point. The new crossmember has matching holes. Stering mounts on crossmember go to the front.
3. Place coil spring pods over frame and line up with lower crossmember.
Pods will fit only one way (taller side to front). Check for clearances between frame and new parts. Correct any interference problems found.
At this point we recommend that you check for tire centering. Do this by assembling A-arms and spindle on one side (without a spring) and installing a wheel. Visually check for centering. As furnished, the kit is installed 1/2 inch behind the original position. This will center the wheel on most cars. (Most likely to miss are early 35-36 PickUps). In the unlikely event of a miss, the crossmember can be moved up to a 1/2 inch without trouble. Wheel centering is normally not a problem, but it is always better to check.
4. Clamp upper and lower pieces together and in place. Again, check fit. When drilling new holes, do the vertical holes first. Insert these bolt and tighten. Now drill holes in sides (8 total), insert bolts and tighten.
Crossmember, frame and pods should now be firmly attaches to eachother.
5. Strut rod support brackets are next. Straighten frame edges to 90 degrees (see step 1).
Put bracket in place around frame and insert a bolt in the center brace to crossmember tube. Now fit the bracket to frame and locate the point that the bracket fits the frame best. Do both sides. Compare measurements, and make them both the same. Brackets will fit the frame exactly only if the frame is straight and edges of frame are 90 degrees to the side.
6. Drill underneath holes first, keeping bracket flush with outside of frame. Do outside holes and upper holes, bolting together as you go. To do upper holes, clamp flange to frame and drill through frame rail and mount. Check that all bolts are tight.
7. Install components from 1974-1980 Pinto or 1974-1978 Mustang II to complete installation. Only manual steering is recommended. Use Pinto strut rods, not Mustang II strut rods. Use a new strut rod bushing set. See Ford or front end manuals for installation instructions covering A-arm, strut rods, springs, shocks and line up specs. Cut your stock coil to 12" height (our Chassis Engineering coil springs are already properly sized).
8. We suggest #325 lb coil springs (FS-8325, link) when using a small block engine and this IFS kit. We have coil springs available in 25 lb. increments. For questions, just give us (or your dealer) a call.
9. To adjust height, first take all weight off the springs. This means jacking the front wheels off the ground and possibly unhooking the shocks.
Caution: To prevent injury, be sure to use jack stands to support the car any time you maybe working under it !
Loosen 1/4" locking set screw and turn height adjuster to new position. The adjustment can be used to lower or raise the car, but is intended to compensate for different springs. For correct geometry, the lower A-arm should be parallel to the ground. Line up groove in threads and retighten locking set screw.
10. The final step, after height adjustment is to have the front end aligned to Pinto specs.
Once a fresh car with a new I.F.S. gets some good road miles, it may become necessary to once again adjust the I.F.S. spring pods due to normal settling of the new front coil springs. The lower control arms must maintain a "parallel to the ground" stance for good geometry and prolonged ball joint life. When making such an adjustment, remember to loosen the set screw and add a little anti-sieze compount before turning down the spring adjuster.
Please note the precision-milled I.F.S. adjustment wrench (IF-0000W, link).
Removing the shock and use of a spring compressor will also aid in this procedure. Re-install shock and tighten set screw.