Our famous Bolt-On Pinto Mustang II Crossmember kit for 1937-1939 Chevy.
This custom-made fully bolt-on crossmember kit is based on the Pinto-Mustang II independent front suspension system. Adding this kit to your ride eliminates bump steer and other unpleasant surprises resulting in a safe and enjoyable ride.
The crossmember itself lowers your car about 2-4 inches when compared to stock, and with the adjustable upper coil spring pods there is about 2 1/2" of additional adjustment possible to further fine tune your setup, providing the best method available to get the correct height geometry.
Center support rods provide additional strength to the lower strut rod mount, and the interlocking tabs between upper pods and lower crossmember prevent movement.
Safety thru Engineering: This fully bolt-on crossmember uses Pinto-Mustang II based suspension components. Using our 50+ years of expertise and experience, we have engineered this system to provide your classic ride with a suspension that is far superior to that of the original Mustang II in safety, strength, handling and performance.
Interlocking design: The main bolt-on crossmember cradles the frame for strength far superior to weld-on crossmembers. Chevy frames are too thin to weld on safely and very frequently crack near the weld.
Adjustment System: Our exclusive ride height adjustment system enables about 2 1/2" of adjustable height at the coil spring pods, providing the best method for correct ride height geometry or to fine-tune your ride.
Note: The adjustment system provides a quick and easy way to correct the driving geometry of your ride. The crossmember itself will lower your ride 2-4 inches from stock. It is important to keep the lower A-arms level. Our adjustment system allows you to set up the suspension correctly and then adjust as needed as the car settles.
Easy and accurate installation: Build using the highest quality standards, our independent front suspension is easy to install. The unique bolt-on system can be mounted safely and securely, and with the included instructions, installation of the crossmember is just a matter of following a couple of steps. The super-accurate fixtures we use when building your crossmember ensure a perfect fit.
Complete hub-to-hub component package, IF-7480TW, link, when combined with this crossmember builds a complete front end.
Kit includes new custom made upper and full lower control arms, spindles with nuts, caliper bracket kit, 11" rotors, calipers with pads and pins, coil springs, manual rack and pinion, rack bushings, tie rod ends and shocks. The full lower control arms eliminate the need for support rods.
Complete hub-to-hub component package, IF-7480HH, link, when combined with this crossmember builds a complete front end.
Kit includes new custom made upper and lower control arms, strut rods with bushings, spindles with nuts, caliper bracket kit, 11" rotors, calipers with pads and pins, coil springs, manual rack and pinion, rack bushings, tie rod ends and shocks.
To fine-tune our ride height adjustment system easily, consider our custom IFS wrench, link.
Set-up rods that temporarily replace the shocks and springs for an easy way to set the correct ride height during the build, link.
Radiator Support AU-2254, link, makes a great compliment to this Chevy IFS.
Installation Instructions for Chassis Engineering IF-3739CP Bolt-on 1974 & up Pinto-Mustang IFS For 1937-1939 Car
Remove the original front crossmember by drilling out the rivets. Straighten the frame lips where the new crossmember and strut rods will sit. Make sure to remove all the rivet heads that may interfere with fitting the IFS. Grind heads flush with the frame.
Note: You can reuse the radiator support by cutting it free from the crossmember and leaving it attached to the frame. Alternatively, we also offer a replacement radiator support, AU-2254 (link).
Clamp the new lower crossmember in place using the dimensions displayed below.
The steering mounts on the crossmember go to the front. On some frames, some mounting holes may line up, depending on the model of the car.
Place the coil spring pods over the frame and line them up with the lower crossmember.
The pods will only fit one way, the taller side goes to the front.If the pods are flipped, the bolt holes will not line up.
Note the slope of the pod to find the tall side.
Check for clearances between the frame and your new parts. Correct any interference problems you may find.
At this point, we recommend to do a tire-centering check. To do this, assemble the A-arms and spindle on one side, without a spring, and install a wheel. Visually check for centering.
In the (unlikely) event of a miss, the crossmember can be moved slightly (up to a 1/2"). Wheel centering shouldn't be a problem, but it is always better to check.
Drill the eight vertical holes through the frame lips using the crossmember as a drill guide. Install the bolts.
Drill the side holes (8 total) through coil spring pods and the new crossmember. Install the bolts.
The crossmember, frame and pods should now be firmly attached to eachother.
Strut rod brackets are next. Put the brackets in place under the frame and insert a bolt in the center brace to crossmember tube. Now fit the bracket to the frame and locate the point that the bracket fits the frame best. Do both sid4es. Compare the measurements and make them both the same. Brackets will fit the frame exactly only if the frame is straight and the mounting surface is flat.
Drill through the strut brackets and frame lips while keeping the bracket in alignment. Install the bolts.
Install components from 1974-1980 Pinto/1974-1978 Mustang II to complete the installation.
Manual steering is recommended. Use Pinto strut rods, no Mustang strut rods. Use a new strut rod bushing set. See Ford ot Front-End manuals for installation instructions covering A-arm, strut rods, springs, shocks and lineup specs. Cut your coul to 12" height. (Chassis Engineering coil springs are sized properly).
Chassis Engineering has springs available in 25lb increments, link
To adjust the height, first take off all the weight off of the springs. This means jacking up the front wheels of the ground and possibly unhooking the shocks.
Caution: To prevent injury be sure to use jack stands to support the car anytime you may be working under it.
Loosen 1/4" locking set screw and turn height adjuster to new position. The adjustment can be used for different springs. For correct geometry, the lower A-arm should be parallel to the ground. Line up groove in threads and retighten locking set screw.
The final step, after height adjustment is to have the front end aligned to Pinto specs.
once a "fresh" car with a new IFS gets some good road miles, it may become necessary to once again adjust the IFS spring pods due to normal settling of the new front coil springs.
The lower control arms must maintain a "parallel to the ground" stance for good geometry and prolonged ball joint life. When making such an adjustment remember to loosen the set screw and add a little anti-seize compound before turning down the spring adjuster.
Removing the shock and use of a spring compressor will also aid in this procedure.
To aid in adjusting your IFS, we offer the IF-0000W adjustment wrench (link).
Afterwards, reinstall the shock and tighten the set screw.